Luke Foley
Doug Martland
Genevieve Martland
Tim Peck
Mickey Spades
All in Climb
There’s a surprising number of alpine routes on the Boott Spur Buttress on Mt. Washington. Some are primarily snow climbs, like Cathedral, Stovepipe, Dodge’s, and Hillman’s. Others, such as Summer Chimney and Autumn Arete, are rock routes that ascend one of the three rock buttresses (the aptly named Buttresses No. 1, No. 2, and No. 3) that guard Boott Spur’s upper reaches.
Scott Powers shares some gear tips for the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course.
A chalk bag is a great place to carry emergency essentials when you're climbing. It’s always there, rarely forgotten, and often has room to stash some critical gear. Here’s what I put in mine.
Rattlesnake Rocks has some of the best single pitch climbing in Greater Boston. While we’ve already written about some of the area’s best easy trad climbs, here is a six-pack of enjoyable routes that are worth checking out if you are in the vicinity as well as a pro tip on where to kick back after a fun day climbing.
A crossover between a trail runner and an approach shoe, I lusted over La Sportiva’s TX Guides for months. But the initial reviews I read were mixed—some said the sizing was funky, while others just raved about them. Eventually, curiosity got the better of me and I got a pair. After two months of lapping the Blue Hill Slab and some climbing sessions at Quincy Quarries, it was a great decision, as Sportiva’s latest approach shoe is perfect for the slabby terrain that I frequent. Here are my initial impressions:
As he continues to develop his resume for a future AMGA Rock Guide Course, Scott recently asked me to share some favorite 5.10s that he could top-rope before leading. Here’s the first five on my list, along with a little beta for each route.
With the current situation involving the COVID-19 pandemic, it has become impossible or a poor idea to gym climb unless you have a personal home gym. That can be a bit of a drag for many of us, however, we can turn that situation around to take care of ourselves and hit the upcoming rock season even stronger. Below I lay out some ideas to kick start your at-home training so you get stronger during this situation.
Quincy Quarry has three excellent dry tool cracks. Early season favorites of mine, they are worth checking on any day you want to swing the tools, but the ice isn’t “in.”
Quincy Quarries is one of the last places where you’d think there’d be ice climbing. But it’s there, at least until it isn’t. And when it’s “in,” it’s actually pretty good. Here are my favorite routes as well as some beta.
Tim and I recently climbed Endeavour (5.7, Grade III), a classic route up White’s Ledge in Bartlett, New Hampshire, as part of my 2019 Must-Climb Routes. Although unseasonably warm, we were rewarded with engaging climbing, an alpine-like setting, and an incredible view of the White Mountain National Forest as it transitions into its fall splendor. Since the route is south-facing and warm, there’s still ample time to jump on it this season.
Scott and I recently climbed Lakeview (5.6, Grade III, 7 pitches) on Cannon as part of my 2019 Must-Climb Routes. It was awesome, although at times a little intimidating. It was also, in keeping with Cannon’s reputation, a bit loose.
So you finally have a weekend to join your friends on a trip to Rumney and you’re excited to climb outside for the first time. All that time learning to climb in the gym has prepared you for the physical aspects of the upcoming climbs, but not necessarily the personal gear you need to send the transition from gym to crag. Here’s my recommendation for a streamlined and highly versatile kit.
Climbing season is in full swing in Greater Boston and I’ve been psyched to get out to Quincy Quarries with Luke, Mickey, and the Ski Patrol Guys several times over the last few weeks. Getting back on real rock has been fantastic after a winter in the gym, and Luke’s captured the transition perfectly with the camera. Here's my favorites of his recent climbing pics, along with my description.
I climbed so many outstanding pitches in 2018. With rock season now upon us, I’ve been thinking a lot about routes that I’d like to climb this year. So without further ado, here’s five new-to-me rock routes in the Northeast that are on my “to-do” list for 2019.
This installment of the Quincy Quarries bouldering project covers the climbs found on O wall.
When I started rock climbing, my gear consisted of a pair purple 5.10 Spires. Eager to climb, but lacking any other equipment, I bouldered. My first “real” problem: a 50 foot traverse from a small but solid stance in a cave on what I later learned was Quincy Quarry’s “N Wall.”
I wrote the other day about what we climbed during a recent trip to Red Rock. With the climbing summarized, here are a few more post-trip reflections.
I recently returned from a fantastic 5-day climbing trip to Red Rock with my friend Josh, who I met during the AMGA Rock Guide Course in North Conway in September. Here’s a quick rundown of what we climbed.
At Little Elephant Head in Tompson Street Reservation on Cape Ann, the 5 feels like a 7, the 6 starts like an 8, and the best 7 climbs like a 5. And as Nick and I discovered last weekend when we set off to climb at this obscure Red-Rock-alternative, the routes themselves are really hard to find.
I’ve been thinking a lot recently about my favorite pitches that I’ve lead in 2018 (so far). There were a bunch of candidates and it was a fun process to whittle down the list. Here’s my top 5, with a few honorable mentions for good measure.
